Eight wonderful days in the Lakes in April 2008 Print
Written by Andrew Mason   
Thursday, 22 May 2008

Day 1

Grey Crag and Hartsop Dodd

Like many an OFC member living in the south of the country, I can't wait to get my first sight of the fells on every trip back to the promised land.  For me, the magical point is usually the crest of the A591 just before Windermere, when you get that view over the lake to Claife Heights beyond.  Although not a fell view as such, it is a legacy of previous holidays when we would be eager for that first sighting of one of the famous lakes.   Being keen I had driven non-stop from Saffron Walden in Essex, with just a stop at Booths to buy a sandwich.  A bit excessive maybe, but it gave me a shot at a decent walk on the fells.  And with the weather that greeted me when I pulled up at Hartsop, I was determined to make the most of it.   It was a definite suncream and t-shirt day, and I was working up a sweat as I made the climb towards Hayeswater.  I couldn't really face the steep ascent of Hartsop Dodd straight off, so Grey Crag was to be my first port of call.  Hayeswater was worth a visit, deeply surrounded by the steep flanks of these fells, but it was soon back to the grind up the side of Grey Crag to meet the ridge.  Although I had visited Thornthwaite Beacon and Caudale Moor previously, I took the time to return to the summits and have a good look around, before the easy ridge walk to Hartsop Dodd.  Here the view was almost as from an aircraft to the houses below, and offered a great perspective on the eastern fells which seemed to be storing up a huge bank of cloud behind them.  Finally the steep, and I mean steep, descent back to the car rounded off a good start to my week.

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563116854KgNZzg

Day 2

Easedale Tarn and Hallin Fell

Thanks to the hospitality of John Paterson at Fornside, I was able to have a bonus extra day at the start of my holiday, so Friday morning saw me up bright and early for breakfast, before wishing John and Polly goodbye for the next few days.  I drove to Grasmere to meet Steve Procter and Lorraine Barks for a walk up to Easedale Tarn as part of Lorraine's ongoing recuperation. We enjoyed a gentle stroll in changeable conditions admiring the waterfalls of Sourmilk Gill on the way there and back.  Lorraine was certainly improving her stamina and we even joked about the ascent of Tarn Crag.  Later, after suitable refreshment of a liquid variety, I travelled up to Martindale Church above Howtown for a very quick amble onto Hallin Fell as the weather front passed southwards.  This fell offers one of the finest views in the district - that looking south into the relatively unknown valleys around Howtown.  It was just a shame I hadn't waited the extra hour for the weather to clear further.  Nonetheless it was worthwhile, and I drove back over Kirkstone to meet the family at our apartment for the week in Ambleside.  It just so happened that a few friends of mine were up in Ambleside for the weekend too, so we had a few entertaining nights out on the town over the next few days!

Whilst this was an easy day distance and effort-wise it was most pleasing to meet with Lorraine and Steve who are excellent company.  As I write this article (mid May), Lorraine has made such excellent progress that Easedale Tarn doesn't seem like the target that it once was.  Lakeland fell summits are now back under her feet, and the prize of Scafell Pike awaits in the late summer.  This just goes to show that our beautiful country, even in the rough fell areas, can offer excursions suitable for almost any ability and level of fitness.


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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563127163AEJmiH

Day 3

Esk Pike, Allen Crags and Seathwaite Fell

I met a couple on Hartsop Dodd on Thursday, and they told me it was going to snow.  Hmmm, I thought, is this another case of weather forecasters covering their backsides.  However I had walked Seat Sandal in snow during April a few years back, so I was glad I had packed all my gloves and hats.  This was just as well, because by Saturday morning the forecast north-westerly winds and snow showers were much in evidence.  I parked up at Stonethwaite and set out on the long walk up Langstrath.  It is far from boring though - this is a great valley with interest all around, and the beautiful pools (dubs) in the beck.  After a steep climb up to Angle Tarn, the main highway between Langdale and Wasdale was joined briefly.  All of a sudden there were people everywhere – sometimes it's nice to find out that you are not the only person on the planet!  I followed a large group up to Ore Gap, and then left them to climb Esk Pike.  A few hail showers left my fingers a bit numb (a not uncommon event for me!), but the visibility was quite good and the setting grand.  I then did an out and back traverse to Allen Crags, before following the fascinating Ruddy Gill ravine below Great End, all the time admiring the crags and gullies of its northern face.  I rounded Sprinkling Tarn and set off to climb most of the high bits of Seathwaite Fell, happy to be a solitary wanderer again.  In descent I chose to use a steep gully highlighted by Wainwright in his guide, to drop down to the path to Stockley Bridge, where I was joined by the masses again!  There was still time to get pelted with hail on the path from Seathwaite to the main road, but this didn't spoil an excellent walk in the heart of the district.  In retrospect this walk doesn't really suggest itself from a study of maps or ridge lines, and if truth be told it was a "bodge job" to take in three remaining peaks that hadn't been visited on other walks.  However, Esk Pike from Stonethwaite is an excellent walk, and the return over the Allen Crags/Glaramara ridge would be a fine day indeed.

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563168704DLSmLs

Day 4

A Greenup round in the snow

Sunday 6th April was a real winter day in the springtime. Whilst David Hall and John Paterson were out on Fairfield, I tried my luck in completing the last of the Central Fells.  There was snow just above the valley floor, so conditions were going to be interesting almost from the off.  The frontal attack on Eagle Crag was slightly slippery but a great way up this rugged fell.  A traverse to Sergeants Crag followed, before the snow arrived.   Unfortunately the snow didn't leave in much of a hurry, so it was practically a white-out.  Low White Stones was eventually reached and High Raise a short time later.  It was a bit of a "What am I doing here?" situation, but I persevered and navigated down to Greenup where a brief clearing of cloud showed me the way forward to Ullscarf.  The wind-borne snow caused Ullscarf to come and go, and by the time I reached Great Crag I felt like I was the only person left on the fells!  Looking back, I didn't much enjoy Great Crag – it was a confusing place and didn't show itself in a great light – I guess I will have to return one day.  Ullscarf was also rather lost in the snow showers, mainly because I couldn't see for snow in the eyes.  However, Eagle and Sergeants Crags were fantastic, especially the ascent which was great fun in snow.  The route finding was also challenging, but sometimes you need to set yourself challenges to really get the most out of yourself.  All in all, the verdict reads:  Hard work, good fun, satisfaction!

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563193027JuLzVt

Day 5

Back O' Skiddaw with the OFC

On Monday 7th I joined John Paterson, Paul Harrison, Ann and Roger Hiley and Nick Pease together with the dogs Polly, Harry and Bethan for a walk over the Back O'Skiddaw fells that I hadn't yet visited.  We left cars at Orthwaite and Longlands to avoid the lengthy road section at the end of the walk.  We ascended Great Cockup first, then down to the interesting pass of Trusmadoor.  John had football matters down the M6 to attend so left us here – and to his delight Stoke are now a Premier League side.  Paul's town shoes (he forgot his boots!) were not up to any more punishment either so he exited stage left to return to Longlands.  The rest of us continued over Brae Fell and on to Great Sca Fell where a large snow shower engulfed us and our lunch.   The limited visibility gave Nick a chance to practice his navigation skills for his Mountain Leaders Course and he safely got us to Brae Fell as the weather improved.  A few snowball fights and snowball tossing for the dogs made for a lively traverse around the head of Charleton Gill and over Lowthwaite Fell and on to the Wainwright top of Longlands Fell.  We descended to Longlands and after a bit of car work reconvened at Fisher's for refreshments.  All in all a great day with good friends, both human and canine despite the odd numb finger or two!

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563237923UJwnet

Day 6

The Buttermere Holy Trinity

When I woke up on Tuesday 8th, I could see the fells were still covered in a good amount of snow above 1500'.  I was looking to visit the Kirkstile for a pint and to get a couple of bottles of Kirkstile Gold, so Buttermere was my choice of starting point for the holy trinity of Red Pike, High Stile and High Crag.  I climbed up through the woods from the outflow, then steeply into the basin of Bleaberry Comb.  The scenery around this section was breathtaking; up to the crags of High Stile, almost monochromatic in the conditions, and down to snow-capped fells reflected in the calm of Buttermere and Crummock Water.  Up into the snow which was surprisingly deep in places, I climbed a steep gully to the summit of Red Pike.  Views all the way up were fantastic as was the rock scenery closer at hand, and I watched in amazement as someone set off on a scramble up Chapel Crags.  After a detour to the Ennerdale side, I climbed to High Stile and then took lunch on the East ridge.   I can't recommend this spot highly enough – away from the crowds on the edge of the abyss into Birkness Comb, with stunning views to Hassness and Fleetwith.   An easy traverse to High Crag gave excellent views of crags, lakes and fells.  The final steep descent of Gamlin End leads via Seat to Scarth Gap where an easy return to Buttermere was made alongside the lake.

I have to rate this as one of my finest days on the fells, it was almost a shame to miss out Haystacks, but that is reserved for Wainwright number 214.

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563249764dXfqil

Day 7

Catbells to Robinson

Today was the greatest amount of ascent in the week - 3700', although by this stage I was getting used to the climbs.  I started near Newlands Church and climbed up to Catbells the back way via Yewthwaite mines.  I started relatively early so the summit was mine alone for 5 minutes – a rare treat where Julia Bradbury has trod!   I strode along the ridge via Maiden Moor to High Spy with great views and plenty of solitude before dropping down to Dale Head Tarn in a hail shower.  The climb up to Dale Head was never-ending, and really seemed to take it out of me, but it was another lunch stop with a view!  Finally, I traversed across Hindscarth Edge to Hindscarth and Littledale Edge to Robinson which contained much more pronounced dips and rises than you imagine.  I enjoyed a look back at Honister Crag and the Via Ferrata as well as indulging in a few snow slides.  The vista opened up past Buttermere to Crummock Water at the top of Robinson, before I descended via High Snab Bank which has a few exciting scrambles.  In fact, I was surprisingly challenged to find an easy route down one of these short rock bands – perhaps I was just being soft after a hard day, it was hardly Jacks Rake after all!  A gentle stroll back to the car via High Snab Farm and Newlands Church concluded the day's strenuous activities leaving a relaxing visit to the pub at Braithwaite to finish.

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563258948mDpciG

Day 8

Kirk Fell

The last day of my holiday saw me visit Wasdale Head. Now, it always seems to rain whenever I start a walk in Wasdale and today was no exception. I set out to climb Kirk Fell via Black Sail, and then enjoy the Gable Traverse, but things didn't quite go to plan....!  I arrived quite early at Wasdale Head green and parked up as it chucked it down.  I then watched as some strange guy in on of those Peugeot "vans with windows" (can't remember what it's actually called) towed a camper van out of the mud, and then drove round every wet and grassy part of the car park as if he was touting for business.  I left him to it, and took the path behind the cottages heading for Mosedale.  I paused to look at Kirk Fell direct, and shook my head on that one, continuing on my planned route to Black Sail as the rain eased and the clouds started to lift.  The route to Black Sail was easy; although whether you'd want to do it in one go as Wainwright suggests is another matter.  At the top of the pass, I observed a trio of walkers climbing an interesting gully onto the plateau of the fell.  Not the correct route I thought, but it looked fun so I followed them, and apart from messy hands it was good sport.  At that point it looked as if the sun might break through, but what did I know.  The summit was clagged out, the hail fell, and my hands turned an interesting colour as I ate my sandwich.  I spent most of the summit traverse trying to warm my fingers, before dropping down to Beck Head which was now enveloped in cloud.  At this point the Gable Traverse was pointless as I couldn't have seen Napes Needle or Sphinx Rock at 10 yards!  To be honest, I think I had walked myself out at this stage of the week anyway – I was pretty fed up that the week was over almost before I knew it.  So, retreat was the order of the day and I found my way down Moses Trod to Gavel Neese and back for a refreshing pint in the Wasdale Head Inn.

 

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You can see the full album on Webshots at http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563401056nKhutr

 

Looking back at the eight days, I can't really complain too much.  I visited 25 new Wainwright summits, plus another 3 repeats.  So, my aim of completing this year is still intact with just 12 fells remaining to be conquered.  And what a selection:

  • The Mosedale Round (maybe Yewbarrow gets a separate visit)
  • Scafell and Slight Side
  • Great End, Scafell Pike and Lingmell
  • Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks

Maybe I'll see you on Haystacks later this year for a glass of something sparkly or a bottle of Bluebird!!




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"I'd just like to say what a great weekend it has been and thanks to everyone who made it such a great time." Liz Lemal on the Honister 2007 weekend