The Ben - The Hard Way Print
Written by Peter Burgess   
Wednesday, 09 May 2012

Related Links

Peter Burgess in Coire Leis The last time I specifically decided NOT to climb Ben Nevis was in the summer of 2011.  I fully intended to notch up the peak as I awoke on the day, but as I drove into Glen Nevis I impulsively changed my mind opting for the Mamore ridge on the south of the valley.  As I left the car park, an elder gentlemen from Fort William and also off for a day on the Mamores announced I had made the right choice.  "Aye laddie, you'll be better off away from the crowded Ben today!"

Visiting Fort William in the midweek of April however, was great.  Without tourists and with Fort William feeling like any regional town, I left my guest house to set out for the start of the tourist route up Britain's greatest Munro.  I had been investigating the route into Coire Leis and the owner of my bed and breakfast establishment informed me you could proceed onto Carn Mor Dearg from beneath the CIC Mountain hut.

The Private CIC hut
CIC Hut
Proceeding up the tourist track from the Ben Nevis Inn, I soon found myself at Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe (the half way loch) around 600 metres up and once there I left the tourist path to take the more challenging route into Coire Leis in the hope of discovering the route onto Carm Mor Dearg and its equally famous arete.  Dropping into the hanging valley of the northern Corrie I began to traverse under The Ben's northern summit, Carn Dearg and Castle Ridge.  With mist swirling amongst the cliffs, the scene was one of pure mountain.  Surprisingly, I had entered a sheltered world and the walk up to the CIC hut was less exposed than I had imagined it would be.  With cloud down below 950 metres, I was scanning the valley flanks opposite looking for any signs of a path making its way onto the ridge beyond.  I knew I had to veer off before the hut was reached, but in my mind I thought I would venture further south-east always realising that I could turn back at any time.

Spin drift blows up over the CMD Arete
Onto the CMD Arete
The CIC hut was deserted when I got there with only the sound of two wind-turbines to interfere with the chorus of the increasingly blowing wind.  Luckily the wind was from behind, and I ventured beyond the hut and before long was striding through the first of the snow.  I intercepted a line of foot prints beyond the hut and I surmised they would probably be those of an ice climber or someone venturing onto the precipitous cliffs of the NorthEast Buttress. I think my deductions were correct, as before long the footprints disappeared, their continuation disguised by their passage through rocks to my right.  At this juncture I felt like I would investigate the rest of the corrie beneath the Carn Mor Dearg Arete.  I still felt that if needed I would retreat, but I was really keen to make the summit.  I knew sense had to prevail, but as I turned south into the upper corrie the weather began to clear and sunshine illuminated the profile of the arete.  At this point, my way was made clear as a perfect line through snow onto a line of rock could be navigated onto a point at the south-western terminus of the CMD arete.  I won't suggest it was easy going, but it was a magical ascent on good firm snow and with occasional snow flurries blowing about me (see my photo above).  I half expected to see a procession of people crossing the CMD Arete, but there was not a soul.  I still half anticipated a retreat as the backwall slope increased, but with full-winter gear I finally emerged onto the ridge a shout and a 'woop'.  I couldn't believe the vista about me.  Carn Mor Dearg revealed herself beyond the arete and far below in Glen Nevis the contrast in season couldn't be more stark.  I was standing in deep snow as I surveyed the valley bathed in sun - it was definitely more spring-like towards sea level.

The summit of The Ben
The Summit
I brewed a coffee on my lofty perch.  I had wanted to traverse the CMD arete, but my ascent had been wonderful and now I only had about 200m of ascent to go.  The Ben presented a more fearsome side as I turned onto the east ridge.  I won't deny it was steep, especially combined with having to step through deep snow.  My ice axe gave me the extra support I needed and after a good aerobic ascent, I walked onto the eastern fringe of the summit plateau.  Again, I half expected to see lots of people, but only about 10 were there, some of whom I had passed on my initial ascent.

Kindly, one summit visitor took my photo and I took theirs.  The observatory ruins were mostly buried, although the tower with its  emergency bivi shelter was neatly exposed and so too was the trigonometrical point and defunct interpretation column.

The route taken through the day
The Route

It was cloudy at the summit, and oddly after about 10 minutes everyone already at the top left within seconds of each other.  Whether or not this was by accident, or that people felt secure in numbers as they navigated away was not clear to me, but what it did mean was that I was now alone at the summit.  This latter fact is not entirely true, as whilst I explored the plateau a hardy snow bunting ran around with me, no doubt finding tourists' crumbs and perhaps insects frozen into the snow.

Descending the zig-zags
On the Zig-Zags
I had a brilliant time on the summit wondering what the scene would be like in the summer.  I wandered close to the edge of Gardyloo Gully and glimpsed the CIC hut through the mist - it looked a long way down!  What was even better was that although there no long range vistas, the view cleared enough to give a good prospect of the northern cliffs of Ben Nevis.  Apart from my adventurous line of ascent, the prospect relayed to me how very much a Mountain Ben Nevis is.  Perhaps summer conditions are less so, but I knew I had to respect the peak for what it is.  With this is mind I decided to take a compass bearing from the summit.  Although it wasn't enirely necessary with footprints in the snow, I still wanted to be sure in case local visibility changed as well as to test my navigation skills - a good thing to do when conditions are more favourable.

Snow Bunting at the summit of Ben Nevis 1344m asl
My summit friend!
 


I walked the 150 metres on a bearing of 233 degrees in order to navigate around Gardyloo Gully before I turned to 284 degrees.  The turning point was made obvious by three cairns and then I followed a line of cairns towards McLean's Steep although I did practice my compass skills.  On this side of the mountain, the route was easily navigable in the conditions and soon I was wandering down the zig-zags towards the fording of Red Burn.

The pitched path with a snow flurry over Half-Way Lochan
On the descent
Everyone I had met during the day was descending the mountain.  Experienced walkers in full winter gear, a lone guy with his dog and of course the usual jean-clad, carrier bag carrying regiment.  Having been in some quite serious weather earlier on, it never ceases to amaze me how ill-prepared people can be.

I ended the day at the Ben Nevis Inn, returning later from my B&B for a great evening meal.  I was invited to stay for the live music, but I had a long drive on the cards and decided to retire early.  It had been a great mountain day and my ascent had revealed The Ben's hidden facets.  These are definitely worthy memories to cherish and I really can't wait to be in Scotland again soon!


Bookmark with:What's this?

Reddit!Del.icio.us!Facebook!StumbleUpon!Yahoo!
 
RSS

Fellrunning's Links

email Send Peter email

Join Us

Want to participate in the OFC? Then why not join the Yahoo Message Board




"A big thank-you too to Peter for piecing together the latest Lost Sheep, I feel honoured to find a place in this extra special issue and serve AW's dearest cause." Mark Richards