Online Fellwalking Club - The Mamores

The Mamores - Western Ridges

Written by Peter Burgess

Monday, 31 October 2011

Ben Nevis from the Ridge

A recent trip to Scotland had me chomping at the bit for some hill and munro magic! With a few days on the shores of Loch Eil I had some canoeing in mind as well as one eye fixating on Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain and which looms over Corpach like a huge arching magnet. However, as I perused the map and read a few guidebooks, it was soon the nearby Mamores that had set their names into my planning for my first mountain day. With a great drive up Glen Nevis one sunny morn, my decision was affirmed by an aged, grey haired, Fort William man, "Aye laddie, you're better off going up here. These are fine mountains!".

Route map

Parking in the carpark at the foot of Sgurr a' Mhaim, I opted for an ascent up Mullach nan Coirean trudging up through the forest on its north-east flank. I decided to follow the river for about 1.5 kilometres, enjoying the falls and coolness of the shade on this late summer, sunny morning. Although I had to climb steeply to the ridge line, I actually prefer a short, sharp ascent as a opposed to one that rises gradually. Climbing such a steep flank, I always feel you get a greater perspective of the mountains and I have to say the views up into the valley head wall and back across to Ben Nevis, looming large were spectacular. The photographs here could never do it justice.

Stob Ban

Mullach nan Coirean was a simple traverse once on the summit line, and the rest of my day's objective were arranged to my east like the noble spires of some fine town. From my first Munro of the day, the way forward rarely dropped below the heady 3000 foot mark and very soon I was standing on a subsidiary, quartzite summit looking across Glen Nevis to The Ben with Stob Ban just over one kilometre's march away. Stob Ban looked spectacular, but as I reached its summit ridge it was the prospect of Sgurr a Mhaim across the gulf of a subsidiary valley that really took my breath. The upper slopes covered in crystalline scree, falling steeply towards the valley with the walkers path zig-zagging the seemingly perpendicular flanks was a sight to behold.

The Devil's Ridge

With Stob Ban I paused a while (eating some lunch), before descending off the isolated summit towards a small lochan, beneath Sgor an lubhair. Circumnavigating my way southwards to avoid the steepest slopes, an easier trail traverses the mountain, and although further, also encapsulates some wonderous views down to Kinlochleven. With Sgurr an lubhair, came one of the day's highlights with a traverse of the Devil's Ridge. Initially just an exposed amble along a very narrow ridge, the bite in the tail comes, as you near the north end of the ridge where it abuts Sgurr a Mhaim. Whenever out walking, I try to keep my route as near to ridge crests and edges as far as I can and today was no exception. However, a fall at this point, especially as I was on my own could have proved costly. However, the exhiliration, even for such a short time was brilliant and as I made my way onto the summit dome of Sgurr a Mhaim, I felt very much alive. Adrenaline can be a brilliant thing!

The ‘Bad Step’ on the ridge is perhaps exaggerated - it can be jumped across. If you missed of course, a couple of bounces would land you down in the corries. Hamish Brown, Scottish hill walker and writer

Ben Nevis

Summiting my final peak of the day felt good and "Peak of the large rounded hill" despite being a mighty 3605' above sea level was still dwarfed by Ben Nevis to the north. This however, is part of the coup, because like my earlier thoughts, as so many people aim for the ultimate Ben, the mountains just a stone's throw away are almost devoid of people. There is no doubt that if this range was anywhere else, then it would be better known and would stand tall as one of the best mountain ridges in Britain. I didn't have the time nor the inclination to tackle the rest of the ridge towards Binnein Mor, but on the steep descent back to my car I knew that I had walked a fantastic ridge. If you're ever in Fort William for some time, by all means tackle The Ben, but don't forget there are lesser and perhaps more worthy mountains not too far distant. Grab your map, compass and find your own way! PB!

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"Just had to say, thank you for such a grand few minutes. I am 67 now and my knees are past the challenge of such a climb (Tryfan article) but it was great doing it again online with you." Sheelagh Finlay

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