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The Yorkshire Dales Grand Tour |
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Written by Peter Burgess
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Monday, 27 July 2009 |
 Kilnsey Crag Two days accompanying friends to a crime writers' conference in Harrogate left time for myself and a friend to see some of the Yorkshire Dales. Although Arthur wasn't aversed to walking, the thought of some pleasant touring, eating lunch in some rural hostelries and the chance to experience some great scenery was a chance not to be missed. As a result, the two of us spent two fantastic days, in good weather going under, over and through the Yorkshire Dales.
Although I guess it would've been great to walk, showing someone around a place you know is a pleasant experience for both concerned. Arthur, a Kentish lad by birth, has travelled into the Dales before, but our two days of touring led him to places he had visited before, only seen on the television or as happened often, were completely new experiences. The weather over our two days was great and The Yorkshire Dales held its head high to showcase its legendary scenery and beautiful villages. It really was a fantastic 'Grand Tour'and I must thank Arthur for his company.
Friday 24th July 2009
 Arthur and Peter Driving north from London at 5am, gave opportunity for a full day's tour in the Dales. Leaving the rest of our party to enjoy their crime writing in Harrogate, we set off westwards. As we crossed the moors west of Pateley Bridge we stopped at Toft Gate where there are impressive remains of a lime kiln. There are a number of areas where there is evidence of a lime burning industry. Before the 1850s limestone extraction and burning was carried out on a local level supplying field lime and mortar for the houses near the kiln. The construction of the railway to Pateley Bridge gave a boost to the lime business and several larger commercial kilns were set up. The remains of the largest of these can still be seen at Toft Gate. Lime was conveyed from here by cart to the rail terminus in Pateley Bridge. Setting off again we dropped into Wharfedale and as the hour was lunchtime we stopped beneath the crag at Kilnsey. Suitably imbibed and now fulfilled with fine food and refreshment, our drive led northwards towards Buckden and the upper Wharf. Looping over the moor and returning southwards we took in Ribblehead Viaduct before a visit to White Scar Caves, somwhere I had not visited for years. Now with a lovely extension in the form of a grand tea shop and newly accessible caverns underground, the venue can boast the longest show caves in Britain. I can recommend a visit for those of you with a subterranean disposition! The end of the day saw our drive back to Harrogate via the A59 over Blubberhouses punctuated by a stop at Clapham where we had a pleasant wander in the quiet of late afternoon. The two presentations below more visually present the itinerary from today's drive: Part 1
Part 2
Saturday 25th July 2009  Stump Cross Caverns A full day was on offer for travelling around today after we had visited Pateley Bridge for breakfast. Suitably refuelled with full English petit dejeuner our road led over to Stump Cross Cavern. It was interesting to compare this exploration with our experience at White Scar where you are guided around the show cave. Here at Stump Cross Caverns you are left to your own devises and can essentially explore the caves at will. Although the caverns are smaller, it seemed more interesting to wander amongst them on your own and it allowed you to explore at your own pace.  Off-road After our cave experience, Arthur and I parted company with the rest who returned to Harrogate for the conference. Our journey carried on westwards dropping down to Kettlewell before exploring the fell road over to Horsehouse via the road known as Great Hunter's Stone. Rising nearly a thousand feet in just over two miles, the road is a lovely route and we paused as we reached the escarpment at Tor Dike. A bronze age burial cairn or bell barrow sits unpretentiously next to the road and there are excellent views to Great Whernside to the east with Wharfedale to the south. Driving on towards Horsehouse we stopped briefly at the Great Hunter's Stone before descending into the valley of the River Cover. My intention was to turn west then south to visit Malham and its famous cove, but on nearing Buckden I recognised the route of the Pennine Journey I had walked in June 2005. Knowing the route, I asked Arthur what he thought about driving over the mountain road to Stalling Busk. It was rather an experience driving this road up the flank of Kidstones Fell before the crossing of Stake Moss. Pausing on the summit of Green Scar Top at over 1800' above sea level was quite an experience and one which would've left AW cringing I am sure. Having said that, it was dry and the route over the moor stands predominantly on bedrock. I would not follow such a route if it meant causing harm to the surface of the road and detrimental environmental damage. As it happens my tyres hardly left a mark and we only disturbed two couples out walking - they've latterly unsubscribed from the OFC! The road made a far more gradual descent to Stalling Busk on the northern flanks of Cragdale Moor and once here we attempted refreshment at Rydale Preserves - sadly it was closed. Passing the largest area of natural fresh water in The Dales at Semer Water we completed the tour in Bainbridge before we travelled back to our lodgings that night. We hadn't seen Malham Cove, but I think our mountain top adventure made up for it!
THANKS FOR WATCHING - PERHAPS YOU WILL RATE MY YOUTUBE VIDEOS TOO! |
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