Day 1

Les Houches to Les Contamines 

Stage Facts: Dist: 18km Time: 7 hours 24 mins Start: 1007m Max: 1653m Ht. gain: 1616m Ht. loss: 1435m

I was awoken from my slumber by an already alert individual eager to move.  The morn was grey and dim and rainfall splattered the windows of our beautiful alpine refuge in the equally picturesque village of Les Houches cowering beneath the cloud enveloped massif of Mont Blanc.  It quickly dawned on me that we were setting off on our brotherly adventure and that Paul would not renegue on our meticulously made plans.  I have to say, the prospect of setting off in the rain without a view of the mountains made it feel like any normal day setting off into the Lakeland fells!  However, this idea was soon quashed as I shouldered my backpack and the two of us pottered off into the dawn gloom giving  leave of our hosts Suzanne and Rob at the French Alpine Retreat.

Like any long term stay, the first day walking in the mountains is always a little hard.  However, with a heavier burden than normal and the dreary trudge in the poor weather, I began to wonder about my sanity on this escapade.  From Les Houches we walked on from the Col de Voza and soon the geographer's passion in me was ignited as we headed straight for the snout of the Glacier de Bionnassay.  I have to say, it was a magic moment to crunch over the ice and then cross the Himalayan style rope bridge that crossed the steep sided gorge.  After only a short time into this expedition, I felt like we were really in the mountains and it really did feel a world apart from my normal urban existance.  After a climb onto Col de Tricot we descended in the mists down the long zig-zags to the Refuge de Miage and the first of many mountain hut meals.  Although it was summer, the temperature was low and new snows covered the alpine slopes.  Climbing south out of the valley we ascended Mont Truc before a long descent in sunshine to the lovely alpine village of Les Contamines where we would stay the night in our first refuge.

 

Day 2

Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Stage Facts: Dist: 13km Time: 9hours 3minutes Start: 1167m Max: 2483m Ht. gain: 1625m Ht. loss:370m

Day two dawned beautiful with glorious sunshine, although initially it was quite cool at this relatively high altitude.  Walking up valley we took note of markers for that day's TMB Ultra race and soon came across the wayside pilgrimage chapel of Notre Dame de la Gorge.  Inside, the building was meticulously decorated and after lighting a candle we continued on our way.  The bridleway up the Val Montjoie gave to quite easy walking and after exiting the gorge, the vista panned out into alpine pasture surrounded by imposing cliffs and peaks.  A group of horses passed us at one point and with the pleasant weather more and more people seemed to be out enjoying the fine day and mountain air.

One of the more memorable halts on our TMB occurred around about lunch time when we stopped for a truly British tea stop.  Passing walkers probably laughed to themselves to sea our Trangia powered cup of tea and refreshments being brewed just to the side of the path.  I thought it was great however, and noted that passing walkers were smiling but that their faces were tinged with an odd shade of green!  Our lunch spot was impressive.  Now nearing the head of  Val Montjoie, the surrounding peaks were snow covered with Mont Tondu the highest at 3196m, off to our left.  Paul at this juncture decided on a short detour to include the Lacs Jovet high in a nearby corrie.  Invigorated by tea it seemed an excellent idea and soon we were off again.  Arrival at the lakes was impressive where glacial waters filled two lakes framed behind by the snow covered peak mentioned previously.  However, this short, but magnificent detour nearly became my undoing.  Foolishly I failed to notice the development of a blister and as we again returned to the main TMB route the long ascent to Col du Bonhomme seemed long and hard. However, as we hit the 2400m contour I began to see snow on the ground, interspersed by the most gorgeous Alpine flowers.  It was difficult not to be overjoyed at these sights, with meandering paths far below, deep glaciated valleys and high peaks tinged by a sinking sun. This was one of the longer ascents but it was well worth it knowing that at that day's journey end would be one of those fantastic mountain refuges at Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme.

We were not to be disappointed.  On the whole TMB, I think this mountain hut was one of the best we experienced for both location and atmosphere.  It really was an amazing place with great dormitory rooms, food and of course the obligatory evening beers!  Over lunch we made pleasant conversation with some of those we had walked with that day and turning in that night it felt almost like we'd arrived in heaven as the sun turned the nearby mountain peaks into a flaming orange.  Paul watched the 'Ultra' runners pass through in the middle of the night as he had good vantage near the window.  This is a 24 hour race to include the whole circuit of the TMB and made our multi-day excursion seem an easy outing!

Day 3

Col de la Croix du Bonhomme to Refuge Elisabetta (Italy)

Stage facts: Dist: 16.5km Time: 8hrs 21mins Start: 2443m Max: 2756m Tete Nord de Fours Ht. gain: 1085m Ht. loss:1372m

I was excited about today's walk.  Starting out at an altitude of 2443m meant that our initial target was only a few hundred metres of ascent.  Many people descend straight from the refuge but it seemed foolish not to include a visit to one of two high points on the TMB at the summit of Tete Nord de Fours at 2756m.  Leaving our packs on the summit of the Col des Fours (2665m) we ascended onto the ridge line overlooking the Val Montjoie.  Just a few hundred metres higher and a few clicks to our north-west lay Mont Tondu (3196m) and like turquoise crystals Lac Jovet was cradled in the corries below.  It was well into August and crunching through the snow along a narrow ridge was a wonderful feeling with Mont Blanc visible at close quarters a few miles along the rising ridge.  Sadly, we had to descend from the ridge if we were going to make our next night refuge 15km distant over the international border in Italy.

 

From Tete Nord de Fours to Ville des Glaciers was a steep descent of 1 kilometre but through some gorgeous country.  Gladly, although the sun was burning on this summer day, our altitude meant we were protected from the worst of the heat but sun screen was always the order of the day.  A brief pause at Refuge Mottets braced us for the ascent to the Col de la Seigne, the border of Italy and France.  It was about 700 metres of ascent on mainly good pathway but I suppose the weight of the pack and the heat at lower altitude made it seem harder than it might have been.  Having said that, we were in no hurry and plans for this night included using the camping gear - why carry it otherwise?

Oddly, walking into another country over the mountains was rather an exciting and novel experience - I felt like part of the Von Trapp Family from 'The Sound of Music'!  Seriously though, for the first time we began to see some of the famous 'aiguilles' or peaks that flank the steep southern slopes of Mont Blanc.  As we reached the Refuge Elisabetta , the Aiguille de Glaciers leapt skywards like a  great giant cathedral spire.  We pitched our tent above the refuge with fine views from the door onto the Glacier de Lee Blanche.  It was great too cook outside and as darkness came, to watch the many changing colours of a glorious Alpine sunset.  Darkness finally enveloped our world and high above the highest col Ursa Major smiled over us like our own private celestial guardian.

Day 4

Rifugio Elisabetta (Italy) to Courmayeur

Stage Facts: Dist: 18km Time: 5hrs 30mins Start: 2300m Max: 2430m Ht. gain: 460m Ht. loss: 1560m

The initial part of this walk professed to having magical views of the summit of Mont Blanc but today the swirling clouds just weren't playing ball.  However, it wasn't raining and the cloud base was still quite high.  I guess the cloud ceiling wouldn't obscure more modest peaks but when your head is 4810m into the stratosphere the chances of being cloud free are probably slim. The lesser aiguilles however, presented their amazing profiles and mountain architecture and it was incredible seeing the clouds swirling and enveloping their elegant peaks like an enchanting dance of the vales.  The TMB rises high onto the southern flank of the great valley here known as the Val Veni.  Like a great moat with the crenalated castle behind, the valley to the south defines the massif and from its traverse (a kind of immense Loughrigg Terrace) the full grandeur of the high peaks was in our field of view as we marched towards Courmayeur .

 

Initially the walk followed a metalled access track for the Rifugio Elisabetta along the upper reach of the Val Veni.  Ahead lay the marginal moraine of the Glacier du Miage which almost dams the main glacial trough.  As a result, meltwaters have been partially dammed  to create a myriad of larger lakes and smaller pools which, if the mood takes you, form an ideal photographic opportunity in order to catch some mountain reflections.  This feature is called Lac Combal.  The TMB turns south onto the flank of the main valley at the moraine wall.  A brief, but sharp climb lifts the TMB onto a balcony route, where the panoramic views to the north present themselves.  Although not fully clear of cloud, the atmosphere created by the swirling mists gave the mountains and aiguilles an almost ethereal character.  I always think that mountain views are invigorated by the passing of cloud.  What might, in good conditions, be a lovely view indeed, is transformed into partial mystery.  The observer can look to the mountains and wonder what hidden features will be revealed next.  It made for an interesting few hours as the vapours ebbed and flowed.

  

As we climbed onto the balcony route we suddenly heard a sound like an immense clash of thunder.  As we turned, a rockfall could be seen clattering from the precipitous southern slopes of the Aiguille Rouge de Bruillard.  Even from this distance the rocks could be clearly seen and the noise like distance cannon fire reverberated around the valley. We continued along the southern flank of the Val Veni heading for the Col Checrou.  The going was great and the final descent to Dolonne and Courmayeur , although imposing, was made easier by following one of the well graded ski-pistes/paths which, at this time of year, are devoid of snow.  We arrived in Courmayeur, settled into our lodging and then celebrated later on with a freshly prepared pizza, fine beer and some brotherly chat.  We reminisced about the previous 4 days and couldn't wait to come back and complete the tour in 2005.  

  

Day 5

Courmayeur to Rifigio Bonatti - 3 August 2005

Stage facts: Dist: 16km Time: 6hrs 30mins Start: 1226m Max: 2584m Ht. gain: 1597m Ht. loss: 698m

Driving south through the Mont Blanc Tunnel we bade farewell to Tracy and Margaret in Courmayeur for the second round of our TMB expedition.  Both having work commitments, we had to find a time mutually agreeable and with this to contend with we ended up having to walk the TMB in two parts in 2004 and 2005.  Having said that, I think it gave time to reflect on the previous year's walking and made one appreciate a little more the task in hand.  Having spread it out like this gave us time to focus more closely on the various legs of each part of the walk.  Having taken a few photographs in the famous town of Courmayeur we shouldered our packs and set off into the lower Val Sapin before beginning the sharp ascent of 700 metres or so to the Rifugio Bertone.  The weather was kind for this ascent and initially it was through trees so the potential summer heat was never going to be a problem. 

As we left Courmayeur Mont Chétif loomed over us with its 2343m peak.  However, as we climbed it's near perfect 'horn' shape seemed to diminish in stature as across the valley we made the same height in ascent.  After our lunch stop at Rifugio Bertone, we continued the climb, now rising over Mont Chétif as we traversed the hogs back ridge of Mont de la Saxe.  Traced by snow fences, presumably to reduce avalanche risk, we soon topped out at the ridge's eastern end on the Tete de la Tranche at 2584m.  It had been a lovely traverse, framed all the while by the Mont Blanc Massif over the great valley of Val Ferret to the north and west.

From the day's high point we descended to Col Sapin (2436m) and crossed the head wall of the Vallon d'Armina to the Pas  Entre-Deux-Sauts at 2524m.  This was real mountain environment with snow fields and gorgeous alpine flora.  With the clattering of cow bells and the distance high peaks it had to fit the stereotype of everyone's vision of the European Alps.  As we ambled down the Vallon de Malatra we could see buildings ahead wrongly presuming them to be the Rifigio Walter Bonatti at first.  As we got nearer, we realised they were farm buildings but a short while later, as we dropped down into Val Ferret we arrived at the Rifigio perched high above the valley with fantastic vistas of Mont Blanc itself and its satellite peaks.  As the sun set the clouds over the mountains looked like fires erupting - it was a primeval scene of immense grandeur.

 

Day 6

Rifugio Walter Bonatti (Italy) to La Fouly (Switz.) - 4 August 2005

Stage facts: Dist: 20km Time: 6hrs 30mins Start: 2150m Max: 2537m Ht. gain: 1040m Ht. loss: 1475m

For the first few hours of today's walk we were held in the shadow of the southern, north facing slopes of the Val Ferret, the continuation of the massive valley which runs across the southern flank of the massif for 30 kilometres or so from Grand Col Ferret in the north-east to Col de la Seigne near Rifugio Elisabetta in the south-west.  It was lovely walking along this traversing path, in pleasant conditions, bright blue skies and with distant views of Mont Blanc receding into the background.  Ahead lay the Rifugio Elena at the base of the climb to the Grand Col Ferret, our gateway into Switzerland.  As we neared the refuge the grand spectacle of the Glacier de Pre de Bar held my eye and it was remarkable to see all those dormant features you sometimes see in the Lakeland landscape actually at work in this dynamic system.  With recent warm temperatures in the last few decades, the Alpine glaciers have been retreating and here were prime examples of marginal moraines that no longer were being shaped by ice but now just flanked the valley like unsurmountable walls. 

Above the Rifugio Elena (2062m) the ascent steepened to the Grand Col Ferret at 2537m but it again felt remarkable to be walking over the mountains into another country.  Interestingly, the landscape did change as we dropped over the border.  It seemed to be more pastoral on the Swiss side and although very mountainous, the landscape did seem less dramatic and with a greater feeling of green.  For a while the route descended to La Peula (2071m) before the last leg in the valley to La Fouley.  There was one point here that I insisted we stop for lunch.  I think my brother thought we might make the village but when my fuel tanks hit bottom I knew I had to stop - thanks for your understanding Paul!

We arrived in La Fouly with a renewed vigour and once decamped into the Hotel des Glaciers we even had time to ascend a chairlift above the valley so that we could get a new perspective on the village and also to spy out the following day's route along the valley.

Day 7

La Fouly to Champex - 5 August 2005

Stage facts: Dist: 17km Time: 6hrs 30mins Start: 1600m Max: 1627m Ht. gain: 685m Ht. loss: 645m

Today's stage heralded the easiest day on the TMB as a whole.  With only a small ascent at the end of the stage up into and beyond Champex, today proved a lovely jaunt through an ancient agrarian landscape, through old villages and alpine pastures.  We walked most of the way in the company of an American called Greg who we had first encountered near the Col Sapin on the ascent beyond Courmayeur.  It was good to walk with someone else and perhaps Greg, although a seemingly quiet character, enjoyed the company too.

The pathway for today's route kept to the left side of the valley and alternated through trees and meadows.  It was a lovely jaunt with mountains to the west and lovely villages to walk through on the way.  The descent was gradual most of the way to the village of Issert (1055m) before a sharper climb up to the beautifully situated village of Champex.  This is often cited as the place to end this stage, but as things seemed somewhat easier today, we planned to walk on a little further and aimed for the mountain refuge at Arpette, just 3 kilometres and 150 metres of ascent further on.  I think this was an excellent choice, because although Champex had more facilities of a large village, the Refuge d'Arpette had a gorgeous aspect and as it was on the variant route to the Fenetre d'Arpette it would also make day 8's more challenging route all the more easier.  As the sun went down we sat on the rifugio's veranda and looked in awe at the mountains and aiguilles around us.

Day 8

Arpette to Le Tours (France) - 6 August 2005

Stage facts: Dist: 22km Time: 8hrs 15mins Start: 1627m Max: 2665m d'Arpette Ht. gain: 1700m Ht. loss: 1639m

This would prove to be the longest and most challenging stage for the two of us on our TMB.  However, having gained fitness and being used to carrying the pack, the ascent to the Fenetre d'Arpette at 2665 metres proved pleasantly agreeable.  This stage is the more difficult variant but was easily worth the effort.  Although it was raining when we set out, the cloud filling the valley soon evaporated slightly and occasionally we were rewarded by tantalising glimpses through the clouds.  However, it was at the Arpette 'window' that we got the greatest reward.  I guess that this famous pass isn't labelled with the word 'window' (fenetre) for nothing.  The almost square-like breach in the mountain wall amazed both Paul and I, for as we stepped onto the windward side a breathtaking view was revealed before us.  When we turned around, a wall of fog hid the valley but to the front, the great Glacier du Trient cascaded into the valley bottom.   The descent down from the fenetre was long, steep and rocky, but it was dramatic.  We paused for lunch beside the torrents gushing north-west from the receding glacier and it was pure bliss. 

Many people pause for the night at Trient, but we decided to push on to cross back into France for a night's stay in Les Tours.  With this decided, we took to the mountains again, traversing around to the Refuge Les Grands (2113m) before hiking around to the Col de Balme on the French-Swiss border.  One highlight of this route was the path which traversed across a precipitous cliff edge.  I have to say, although you knew it was perfectly safe, the exposure when you are carrying a heavier load than normal made it a little scary but adrenaline making as well.  It was a fantastic route.  From the Col de Balme we made excellent progress down the piste 'fields' above Le Tours.  In fact, with the well graded path we ran down the last sections to be greeted by shouting from above.  As we descended, Tracy and Margaret where in a gondola (aerial type) and had seen us on the path.  They had come out to meet us from Les Houches and it was a happy reunion at the refuge.

We mealed together in the refuge and turned in that night, knowing that the next leg was the last stage in our TMB.  Our final destination would be Les Houches.

Day 9

Les Tours to Les Houches - 7 August 2005

Stage facts: Dist: 27km Time: 9hrs 20mins Start: 1453m Max: 2526m Le Brevent Ht. gain: 1505m Ht. loss: 1836m

Today was tinged with a feeling of slight sadness knowing that this was the last stage in our own TMB.  Over the two years Paul and I had walked together for 9 days which was something we had never done before.  So it was that we left Le Tours on a rather damp morning to set out on our ascent of Le Brevent.  We decided to combine two stages of the TMB into one.  It felt like decidely British weather for the first part of the day, clambering up through rocks which could have been in any mountainous part of the British Isles.  However, one section made it decidely continental as we took to the ladders as we ascended cliffs above Argentiere.  Again, this was a new experience for me.  I usually feel very confident scrambling up rocks, but somehow the polished steel of the ladders made the ascent a little airy but easy all the same.  Having said that, it would have perhaps been a difficult traverse around or scramble up to negotiate this section, so of course the ladders were useful. 

We reached the Refuge La Flegere still in damp weather and nearly took a wrong track as we headed to Plan Praz, the halfway station for cable car travellers going from Chamonix to the summit of Le Brevent.  We of course were doing it the hard way, and after a lovely lunch prepared by our own fare hands, we got on the path to ascend Le Brevent. Twisting its way upwards, the path finally enters some real mountainous scenery far detached from the ski managed slopes below.  We were even lucky enough to see bouquetin (ibex) and as we entered an enclosed hollow the TMB ascended another ladder before emerging onto a track/piste  just below the true summit of the mountain. This really did give a feeling of satisfaction, knowing that most people would ascend this peak at 2526 metres using artificial means.  Although the views were fleeting, we did at least catch site of Mont Blanc across the valley as we drank a brew in the summit restaurant.  

I knew that when we left our table the route was more or less downhill all the way.  Our next destination was our base at the French Alpine Retreat where we'd meet our parents and better halves!  As we traversed down the flanks of the mountain the weather steadily improved and the views of Mont Blanc were spectacular above some intermediate clouds.  This was one of the longest descents from Le Brevent at 2152m to Les Houches at 1007m.  The final part beyond Refuge Bellachat passed through trees and either as a result of being cooler, or thinking we were nearly home we dropped the last few metres to the station road in Les Houches at a running pace!  After such a long day's walk the final sting in the tail was the pathetically short ascent into the village of Les Houches.  It kind of hurt all the same!

Walking along the high street who should we see but our parents shopping on the market.  I guess with hindsight we shouldn't have run up on them as we did - I don't think mum will forget the shock of me running up on her!  It was fantastic to arrive back at the Alpine Retreat under our own steam.  We had completed the TMB. 

Well done Paul and thanks for your encouragement, planning and patience.  I hope I didn't slow you down too much but it was great to walk in your company.  I hope we do it again soon and we'd recommend it to you all!

 

Extras

TMB Stats: Dist: 168km Time: 67hrs 40mins Start: 2443m Refuge Bonhomme Max: 2756m Tete Nord de Fours Ht. gain: 11313m Ht. loss: 11030m

Yes, we had done the TMB in two separate stints, but this did not detract from the achievement we felt at completing the round.  We hadn't cheated by following the lower and shorter routes and wherever possible had taken the variants encompassing the higher passes and routes.  In doing so we had actually taken our time and savoured the route although in fact we had completed it in 9 days instead of the suggested 10 to 12.

I would like to thank Paul for accompanying me.  For Margaret and Tracy for all their support.  To Suzanne and Rob, owners of the French Alpine Retreat, who were excellent hosts on two occassions in their fabulous Les Houches accommodation.  I would also like to thank our parents, Barbara and Brian who also joined us and presented both Paul and I with a lovely momento of our tour.  THANKS.

 

Many may have seen this, but ending this presentation on a light note seems a good idea.  Enjoy: