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Walking in the Mediterranean

Written by Helmut Hudler

Wednesday, 06 May 2009

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Silver Spurge

Many of the Mediterranean countries are quite mountainous areas with lovely countryside. However, this applies not only to the continental areas, for instance the Appenine peninsula, but also and especially to the isles, which in fact in many instances are high mountains, sunken into the sea. One of the best examples is the isle of Crete, with several mountain ranges up to 2.400 m (even with a few small skiing centres). Other isles are volcanic, like Stromboli, Nissyros, Lipari, Ischia or Santorini.
The biggest obstacle to walking in southern countries is the climate. In summer, temperatures at times rise up to 35 or 40 C or even more, not very good conditions for walking. So, the best season for walking is spring, when the winter rains have ceased and temperatures are yet not as high as in summer, or autumn. Depending on the latitude and and altitude, March to May and October may be the best season. However, you must not believe that it cannot rain at this time of the year. If you manage to catch a Mediterranean low pressure zone, it may rain for several days, at times even torrential. On our honeymoon holiday in early June in Italy´s Tuscany we had one week of heavy rain (with floodwater on the river Arno in Florence and Pisa). The further south you go, the longer the sunny season will be and the more stability in the weather you will find.
On the other hand, it is not impossible to walk in high summer. If you get up extremely early, manage to start in a mountain village, take advantage of mountain shadows in the morning, walk high up and return at noon, even July or August may be good for walking. On a linear or circular walk try to do the ascent on a western slope enjoying morning shadow, and the descent on the eastern slope. In August 2007, I did a walk on Spathi Madharas (2.148 m), the highest peak of Crete´s Dikti mountains; on the summit, the temperature was quite comfortable, and the considerable wind added a significant wind chill which was rather pleasant.

Cretian 'strawflower'

As a consequence of the hot summer climate, there is generally a big deficit in water. This applies not only to the high summits, but often it is true also for the valleys. Nearly all of the naturally occuring water is used for watering gardens, fields or olive groves and, of course, for tourists' accommodation with bathrooms and numerous swimming pools. This results in the dryness of many becks and rivers during the hot season. Additionally, many mountains are formed from limestone, which drains the water from the surface. So, never rely on a natural well or a clear mountain beck as a source of water even if it's depicted on your map – it may well have dried up during summer. Of course, this does not make things easier – so always keep lots of fluid with you. On a dry and hot summer day you may need several litres of water for a day walk of 6 to 8 hours.
Sun protection is another important issue – remember the higher UV radiation in higher altitudes, so use high protection sun cream. The gentle wind in higher altitudes may be cooling your skin and may mislead you to suppose that the sun isn't that strong – the opposite is true.
A big regard has to be taken to the condition of the paths. For many areas, there does not exist a thoroughly worked-out map, making orientation a bit of an adventure. Maps show roads only vaguely and many footpaths are not shown. Route descriptions differ in many details, so in you have to rely on a good orientation and map reading skills. You should keep in mind that orientation could be difficult and reserve a bit more time, especially if you depend on public transport, which also may not stick strictly to the plan – the bus may be cancelled or may be going earlier or later – nobody minds there!
There are, however, tourist areas, famous for their walking routes, where paths are well maintained, marked with signposts or even with color marks on trees or rocks, as in the Alps. The National Park of Crete´s Samaria gorge is one example, the wonderful paths of the Croatian isles of Losinj and Cres another.
If you prefer guided walking, many tourist agencies (especially Greek ones) offer special packages in spring or autumn with accommodation and guided tours. Packages go from holidays in a hotel with daily short walks to long and strenuous backpack- and trekking tours over a week or two.

Maquis shrubland

Many Mediterranean countries are covered with maquis shrubland or with garrigue , which in many places are so dense, that the area is virtually impenetrable for humans. Walking an off path route thus seems to be impossible in those areas. Furthermore, extremely dry areas like eastern Crete or high mountain areas often are not covered with grass, but with one or two feet high, extremely thorny bushes. The thorns are extremely peaked and so stiff, that you may hurt your foot through the soles of a trainer – so even these areas may be impenetrable, and in any case you should prefer mountain boots if you want to enter those regions.
Please don´t believe it to be much easier in olive plantations. Apart from the fact that this is cultivated land and the farmers may not be very happy with your visit, those plantations use to be on terraces along mountain slopes, separated by high dry stone walls, which in turn often are covered with thorny scrub. You have to be a good scrambler to move on in that surrounding.
If you, however, have escaped maquis and garrigue and have reached a region, where even the low thorny bushes are sparse, you have to pay special attention to limestone rocks. They may be so covered with so many fine lines and clefts (clints and grikes), formed by rain, winter frost and summer´s wind blown dust, that you may hurt your fingers when you hold on them for scrambling.

Pervolakia Gorge

Special attention may be payed to the numerous gorges found in mountainous limestone areas. Crete is famous for its Samaria Gorge, but there are numerous other ones all over the island. Look out for them, they may be much lovelier than summits, and walked during the daytime, there may be even shadow and cooler temperatures. Furthermore, most of them contain a beck which flow in winter and spring, permitting special plants to grow there and making up for a dense, wonderful vegetation which is in huge contrast to the sparse vegetation elsewhere. I visited Crete´s Samaria gorge in 1994 (sadly, no digital pictures) and Pervolakia Gorge in 2007.
In summary, walking in Mediterranean countries may be a good alternative to lazing around at the beach or pool like the rest of the family. It can be done at any season, provided some simple rules are adhered to. In spring or autumn, it may be a great experience in mild climate. Don´t hesitate to try it.

Helmut Hudler

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